Bagan, Myanmar.
Bagan, in central Burma, is a rich trove of archaeological sites that matches the evergreen beauty of Yangon. The panorama, surrounded by mountains ranging from grey to a delicate lavender, is relaxing to the eyes and mind. The Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) River only adds to the attraction of this paradise on Earth.
Silhouettes created by Bagan’s kings between 1057 and 1287, when their country was destroyed by earthquakes and Kublai Khan and his invading Mongols, and temples crowd the area. There is an abundance of flora here, as seen by the pure air. 2,230 of a large original 4,450 temples remained, with UNESCO restoring the majority of what survived, with the rest featuring intricately arranged Buddha carvings and statues. The temples are often visited, and the number of visitors has increased significantly in recent years. Locals and those with a deeper understanding of the culture and religion choose a few temples over others based on personal worship preferences, while tourists do not distinguish between them because they value the authentic perspective and ambience.
The cultural practice is to greet the monks and nuns with a slight bow rather than shaking hands. This is a really appreciated, valued, and respectable gesture.
TRAVEL
The greatest time to visit is between November and February, when temperatures are not as high as they are most of the year. Temperatures can reach up to 43C (110F) from March to May, therefore it is best to avoid those months. Rainfall is most prevalent between June and October, making travel and navigation difficult. Because the area is rich in history and traditions, a full moon is celebrated with grandeur, making it a must-see for many visitors.
While Bagan can be difficult to navigate, there has been a significant increase due to political party initiatives, and tourism facilities have been better maintained in recent years. Utilities to ensure tourists’ comfort have been investigated, and the methods used have proven to be beneficial over time. Traveling in Bagan is not easy, thus most individuals and websites advocate bringing a partner or two with you to experience the greenery and serenity.
VIEWS
Nyaung-U is the site’s major hub, with the most hotels, restaurants, and transportation options. Just over two miles west is small Old Bagan, a quiet town whose residents were forcibly relocated in 1990 to the bustling New Bagan, some two miles to the south. Old Bagan is closest to the temples and has its own sights, but if you are on a package, transfers will most likely be given wherever you stay.
A few of the more popular temples see some coach tours and can get crowded, with vendors and children trying to sell you their drawings: this is especially true of Ananda Pahto, the single biggest draw, and Shwesandaw, the “sunset” pagoda, so-called because it is the one (with Buledi) that most visitors climb to watch the sunset from.
However, it is simple to take a bike, taxi, or horse and cart to quiet areas of the site, particularly the central plain, where you will not see another soul and where there are dozens of other temples, such as Pyathada Paya, which is full of murals and Buddha statues and can be climbed undisturbed to watch the sunrise or sunset.
By balloon.
The greatest way to see the temples is from a hot-air balloon. The 45-minute flights depart at dawn and fly over much of the site, providing spectacular views of the river and surrounding mountains, hazed by mist, as well as a bird’s-eye view of the temples and rural village life. Sunset flights are also available.
Balloons Over Bagan (00951 652809; easternsafaris.com) is a privately owned Burmese (but British-run) firm. Their balloons are state-of-the-art and operated by highly experienced UK crew, with ground and other staff recruited locally.
Prices are $330 (£217) per person, and flights often sell out months in advance. Flights are seasonal, running from mid-October to mid-March, and are weather sensitive and cannot be guaranteed to operate. Bookings will be reimbursed. Visitors taking package or tailor-made tours should ensure that reservations are made for them. Stand-by tickets are available if you arrive without a reservation.
By bicycle or wagon.
The temple site is too large to explore on foot, but it is ideal for biking, as it is crisscrossed by gravel roads and pathways. Bicycles are available for rent at the majority of hotels in all three centres. If you’re afraid about getting lost or want to see some of the top off-the-beaten path temples, hire a guide. Guides will know where to find the key-holders for locked temples, however many temples are always open, and most are easily accessible for the time being.
You can tour at a slower pace by using one of the area’s 250-odd horse carts, which congregate around the larger or more central temples. Most drivers understand some English and can serve as guides to less-visited areas of the site. Ask your hotel for the current prevailing rate and plan the trip’s price and duration ahead of time.
POINTERS
One of the issues that is still being addressed is the lack of broad availability of ATMs, which is frequently a deterrent to tourists who would rather not carry large sums of cash on them. While the situation has improved, it is still advisable to bring plenty of cash, at least as a precaution. The local money (kyat) is equally as welcome as the US dollar, and local merchants prefer to be paid in Kyat. Because there are numerous temples nearby and it is traditional to leave change as a courtesy, bringing lesser denominations of Kyat is especially advantageous if one intends to visit the gorgeous temples.
Because women are not permitted to enter some temples, it is best to check ahead of time – either by searching and reading up, or by asking a local; shops outside the temples should be helpful. To be accepted into temples, one must be clean, preferably having taken a shower prior to entering. Shoes and socks are also removed, and this gesture is regarded respectable and usual in homes.
The dress requirement at the temples is mainly about covering oneself, thus casual tourist attire is not permitted. Shoulders and knees are covered, as is the rest of the body. Even outdoors, casual dress is not a problem, although the majority of Bagan residents consider it a show of disrespect. A shift in thinking is expected.
Carry your own water. Bottled water is available, and because it can get hot, staying hydrated is essential, especially if you don’t want to exhaust yourself before taking in all of the views and attractions. The savvy shopkeepers stated above are few in number, as seen by the limited number of small, charming, ramshackle cafés that serve traditional refreshments. The temples are generally located at higher heights, and the only way to reach the top is via rocky, often dangerously steep, steps. Even the most rigorous and resolute may find it difficult to reach their goals due to a lack of handrails and uncut stone steps.
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